Molly Lang Landscapes
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    • When Is The Best Time To Plant
    • What Is The Order Of The Design Process?
    • Why Should I Use Mulch At The End?
    • How Do I Get Ready for Spring
    • How should I Transplant
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  • Indian Peach
Moving Heaven and Earth, or Can you Dig It?
Once you have gotten the weeds under control, you can take a look at your trees and shrubs. Now, before it gets too hot, is a good time to transplant plants  that are poorly placed, or have gotten too big.

Early fall and into winter, when plants are dormant, are also good times to transplant, to take advantage of winter rains.

For years in the nursery industry plants were “field grown”.  Customers would buy plants that were dug up, and the root balls were wrapped in burlap, which was left in place around the root ball when the plants were planted.  These are called ball and burlap (B. & B.) plants. Some plants are still sold that way.
Leaving the burlap in place preserves the root ball.  Once in the hole, the burlap should be loosened from the trunk area and either trimmed to below ground level, or tucked under the soil, and allowed to decompose. If the burlap is left exposed to air it will act to wick away the moisture from around the root ball, which is detrimental.

As time passed, plants were grown in metal cans and later in plastic cans. This extends the planting season and makes moving the plants more manageable, at the nursery and at home in your garden. The latest trend is towards biodegradable, plantable containers. 

Transplanting is historically the most common method of moving plants. 
Generally the top portion of the plant needs to be cut back to minimize the water demands, and once replanted it is not unusual for the plants to drop their leaves due to “transplant shock”.  Usually this is no worse than a sunburn to a person and with patience the plant will rejuvenate. You only need one viable cell to regenerate an entire plant because all of the genetic blueprint for the complete plant; roots, shoots, branches, flowers and fruit, is in every cell.
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Before
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After Pruning
Digging the root ball
It is important when transplanting to place the plant high, not low, in a hole, slightly larger than the root ball.  Do not mound dirt around the crown, the place where the plant stem emerges from the soil. Take into account that some settling will occur. Many more plants are lost due to planting too low than from planting too high.  Native plants, Camellias, Azaleas, Rhododendrons and plants from the Mediterranean are particularly intolerant of soil placed on top of the root ball.  You will create an artificial environment if you backfill with only bought organic components. Using some of the native soil will help the plants to adjust to the area they will be sending roots into more effectively.
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The Root Ball
3 Weeks After Planting
You should plan to top dress your planting areas with mulch periodically to control weeds, retain moisture and improve soil structure as decomposition occurs. Don’t feel compelled to remove all the leaves that fall naturally in your garden; they’re mulch in the making.  Once again, do not allow mulch to mound around the crown.

It’s important to position plants taking into consideration their mature size. You should allow for adequate spacing because that means less pruning (maintenance), and healthier plants.

You can increase the number of plants in your garden by dividing and sharing with others.

Give the plants a good soaking and lightly mulch around them.  While the plants are becoming established, through the first summer, the soil will need to be kept damp all around the root zone.

Then practice the Zen of gardening, patience.